1. Measure the inside of the bed
Measure the usable soil area rather than the outside of the frame. Record length, width and intended soil depth. If the bed is open to suitable ground below, roots may grow deeper than the frame.
2. Divide the surface into planning squares
The planner uses cells of roughly 1 sq ft, or 30 × 30 cm. The squares are a planning device, not a physical requirement. You can mark them with string, thin wood strips or simply use the printed layout.
3. Place the tallest crops first
Put trellises where they are least likely to shade shorter crops. In much of the Northern Hemisphere this often means the north side, but nearby buildings, slopes and the season can change the best position.
4. Match density to mature size
Choose the crop and tap a square. The tool uses one, two, four, eight, nine or sixteen positions depending on the selected crop. Use wider spacing when disease pressure, low fertility or vigorous varieties make crowding risky.
5. Use fast crops around slow crops carefully
Radish and baby greens can be harvested before tomatoes or brassicas reach full size. This can increase early production, but the space must be cleared before the larger crop needs it.
6. Calculate soil and buying units
Soil is calculated from exact dimensions even when the visual grid is rounded to whole planning squares. Select the bag volume sold by your supplier and add a reserve for settling.
7. Save, share or print
The plan can be saved locally, shared with a link or downloaded as an SVG file that stays sharp when printed.
Common planning mistakes
- Using seedling size instead of mature plant size.
- Placing a trellis where it shades the rest of the bed.
- Buying soil from outside dimensions rather than the inner volume.
- Assuming every variety of a crop has the same spread.
- Filling the bed to the absolute top with no room for mulch or watering.